Varanasi walking tour & city guide

The ghats

More than 80 ghats line the river. Every evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat, priests perform the Ganga Aarti, a ceremony of fire, bells and chanting. A boat ride at sunrise shows the city waking up. Manikarnika Ghat is the main cremation ground, where respectful behavior is essential.

Old city and Sarnath

Behind the ghats, the narrow lanes of the old city are full of temples, shrines, cows and sweet shops. The Kashi Vishwanath Temple is one of the holiest. Sarnath, 10 kilometers away, is where the Buddha gave his first sermon.

A day by the Ganges

Take a rowing boat at dawn, when pilgrims bathe in the river and the ghats glow in the soft light. Then walk along the ghats from Assi to Dashashwamedh, passing temples, yogis and cricket games.

In the evening, return to Dashashwamedh Ghat for the Ganga Aarti, a ceremony of fire, bells and chanting. Many visitors also watch from a boat on the river.

Good to know

Manikarnika Ghat is the main cremation ground; be respectful and do not take photos there. The old city lanes are a maze, so it is easy to get lost.

October to March is the best season. Try the famous Banarasi paan and the lassi served in clay cups.